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16/10/2015
In Anti-Doping, Mountaineering

Mountain Freedom v Risk – ‘A Discussion Without Peak’

A round table meeting ‘Mountain Freedom vs. Risk – a discussion without peak’ was held in Brixen (Bressanone), Italy on Friday 16 October under the excellent organization of the IMS (International Mountain Summit) and Dr. Luigi Fiorenzo Festi.

The round table discussion sought to answer the following questions:

–       Mountains are often used as a synonym for freedom. But where lie the boundaries and where is the limit between freedom and risk?
–       How far should freedom reach before the climber puts himself or his fellow climber in danger?
–       Is it ethically correct and acceptable to exceed one’s own limits, while risking requiring help from others and economic resources?

The aim was to identify various policies, perspectives and aspects – medical, legal, technical, sporting and economic – in dealing with freedom in nature and mountains.

The participants were:

Annibale Salsa (ITA) – President of the Scientific. Committee of the “Accademia della Montagna del Trentino”

Francesco Cozzi (ITA) – Judge in Genova

Roberto De Martin (ITA) – President Trento Film Festival

Guido Giardini (ITA) – Physician, surgeon and specialist in high altitude medicine

Michele Giuso (ITA) – Attorney in Genova

Erminio Quartiani (ITA) – Vice president of CAI of Education and Environment

Enrico Camanni (ITA) – Journalist in “Historiker des Alpinismus”

Pietro Crivellaro (ITA) – Journalist in “Historiker des Alpinismus” and director of a theatre school

Paolo Valoti (ITA) – Councillor of the CAI

Enrico Visetti (ITA) – Director of the Clinic for anaesthesia and resuscitation of Rettungsflieger Val d ‘Aosta

Bruno Durrer (SUI) – Specialist in high altitude medicine and air ambulance doctor

Manfred Brandstätter (ITA) – Head 118 Südtirol

Fabrizio Barazzoni (SUI) – Chief of medical affairs at the hospital and healthcare sector EOS

Luca Calzolari (ITA) – Journalist and responsible for the CAI magazine Montagne 360

Jürg Schweizer (SUI) – Head of WSL Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research SLF

Stefan Glowacz (GER) – Climbers and entrepreneurs

Hanspeter Eisendle (ITA) – Mountain guides and climbers

Peter Habeler (AUT) – Mountaineer

Marco Salmoiraghi (ITA) – Physician and director of AREU

Alessandro Barca (ITA) – Commissioner

Paolo Di Benedetto (ITA) – Psychiatrists at AUSL Rieti

Luigi Fiorenzo Festi (ITA) – General, oncological, laparoscopic, thoracic-vascular surgery. Mountain medicine and emergency doctor. Director of the Master Course on Mountain Medicine. 

Among the delegates Ass. Prof. Dr. Nenad Dikic participated as President of Antidoping Commission of the UIAA. During his short presentation he touched on the important questions of Drugs in the Mountain environment and the Clean Climbing campaign. With the support of Professor of Design Vukan Ciric, Dr. Dikic presented the premiere of the Clean Climbing animation finishing the presentation to a round of applause.

We thank Dr. Luigi Fiorenzo Festi, the IMS team and Professor Vukan Ciric for the opportunity to present this idea.

The round table was held in a significant venue – the 2016 UIAA General Assembly will be held next year in Brixen (Bressanone).

The Clean Climbing animation was shown during the UIAA General Assembly in Seoul and is available to view below.