The UIAA Safety Commission, through DAV Safety Research, has again received information about a broken chain link from a FIXE belay anchor. As a consequence, the UIAA Safety Commission now recommends replacing all FIXE chains made from INOX. They can be identified by the “INOX”...
Winner of the UIAA prize at the 2018 Trento Film Festival, The Dawn Wall, a film which charts Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson’s epic attempt to scale the rock face by the same name, has recently be launched to international acclaim across North America, Europe...
This latest article from the UIAA Alpine Summer Skills series focuses on extricating yourself from a crevasse. Precautions: Plan for self-rescue before a fall: “If I fall, brace yourselves as much as possible, install an anchor and keep the rope tight. I will climb back out.” ...
During the Gala dinner which concluded the 2018 UIAA General Assembly, the winners of the 2018 UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award were announced. UIAA Rock Climbing Panel representatives, Anne Arran (BMC), UIAA Management Committee, and Marc Beverly, UIAA Executive Board, presented the concept of the Award which was...
Jean-Franck Charlet was recently recognised for his outstanding thirty-five years of commitment to the UIAA. Charlet joined the federation in 1983, served as Safety Commission Vice President under Pit Schubert for seven years and then became Commission President from 2002 to 2009. During its most...
The UIAA is delighted to share details of international screening times for The Dawn Wall, winner of numerous international awards including the UIAA Prize at the 2018 Trento Film Festival. About The Dawn Wall In January 2015, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson captured the attention with their...
The latest article in the UIAA Summer Skills series focuses on spacing between climbers. Characteristics of the terrain, the conditions for progression and the experience of the members of the party will determine how they rope up. Wide spacing Advantages Allows use of intermediate belay points. ...
Submissions for the 2018 UIAA Mountain Protection Award came from all corners of the globe with the project’s dedicated assessment team confirming the nomination of eighteen projects. As of 31 August, all project profiles have been available to view on the UIAA website. Each nominee...
Acute mountain sickness (AMS), high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) and high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) are the most important and most common altitude-related diseases. Up to altitudes of about 5000-6000m, symptoms of altitude illness are a direct result of inadequate acclimatization. The UIAA Medical Commission has...
The latest article from the UIAA Mountain Skills provides recommendations for equipment for an ice, snow, rock or mixed route. Adapt this list accordingly to the difficulty and conditions of your chosen climb. Head: warm knit cap helmet scarf sunscreen > SPF 30 lip balm > SPF...