The UIAA Safety Commission has produced an extensive document charting the factors behind the recent incidents of unexpected climbing anchor failures, notably those under low loads and sometimes after only some months/years in place. The effects of Stress Corrosion Cracking (SCC) Stress corrosion cracking (SCC) has been...
It has come to our attention that the locking mechanisms of some DMM locking carabiners are developing a dysfunction. In a small percentage of carabiners, the interaction between the internal coil spring (which gives the gate it’s closing action) and the spring pusher (the component that...
AMP (Concezione Articoli Montagna Premana) has announced a recall for two sets of crampons: RECALL FOR REPLACEMENT Cassin Blade Runner Crampons If you have purchased a pair of Cassin Blade Runner (ref. 37801, 37803) or Blade Runner Alpine Crampons (ref. 37802, 37804), CAMP asks you to stop using them...
Tech Rock has issued a warning for faulty anchors. If you detect corrison or tiny cracks in your FIXE anchors please report the problemto the UIAA at safetylabel@theuiaa.org. ...
UIAA 155 is newest standard released by the Safety Commission The UIAA Safety Commission unanimously adopted the snow picket standard, UIAA-155 in June. This new standard, fills a gap in UIAA Safety Standards with requirements derived from snow anchor (dead-men) and piton standards. The requirements set forth in UIAA...
It's buyer beware when purchasing crampons online (Photo: BMC for UIAA) The British Mountaineering Council has posted a warning about dangerous crampons being sold online. As the warning states: Getting equipped to tackle the mountains in winter can seem an expensive business, with the cost of boots, axe and crampons totting up to...
UIAA Safety Standards are recognized around the world (Photo: Dave Custer for UIAA) AITEX (Textile Industry Research Association), a renowned centre for research, innovation and advanced technical services in Spain, is the newest test laboratory accredited to certify climbing equipment to UIAA Safety Standards. The UIAA Safety...
If you’ve ever had a question about UIAA safety standards as it relates to your climbing and mountaineering equipment, now is the time to ask. The Safety Commission has launched a question-and-answer process about the world-renowned UIAA Safety Standards which have been developed by mountaineers and...
Mammut has issued a service bulletin for inspection of Mammut / Snowpulse avalanche airbags. The following is text from Mammut about their bulletin: Follow-up inspections have shown that there is an assembly problem affecting individual Mammut / Snowpulse avalanche airbags from the Winter 2011/2012 and Winter...
It took ten years of research and testing to develop a new water repellency standard for ropes (Photo: UIAA) A new standard for water repellent ropes has been approved by the UIAA Safety Commission after almost 10 years of research and testing. "When a rope is full of water, it...