The UIAA Alpine Skills Series returns with guidance on which knot to use when joining two ropes. Climbing on two ropes allows for smoother ropework and the opportunity to divide up the load on the approach. For long rappels, you’ll tie the two ropes together. You’ll...
This latest article from the UIAA Alpine Summer Skills series focuses on extricating yourself from a crevasse. Precautions: Plan for self-rescue before a fall: “If I fall, brace yourselves as much as possible, install an anchor and keep the rope tight. I will climb back out.” ...
Always protect your belay station with a redirect point in order to limit the consequences of a lead fall. Ideally this should be a high anchor that is separate to the belay station, however this is not always possible. If the belay station is bomber, the lead climber can...
Your partner is in trouble (e.g., knot stuck in his rappel device, friction hitch has jammed, etc.)—he is stuck mid-rappel! The following steps will let you free him either from above or below. Freeing your partner from above 1 — Reach your stuck partner by rappelling down the rope under...
The latest extract from the UIAA Alpine Summer Skills Handbook focuses on the factors which weaken a rope and features as part of a chapter dedicated to Equipment. Limitations of a dynamic rope A wet rope will be heavier and harder to use. If your rope...
The latest extract from the UIAA Alpine Summer Skills Handbook focuses on gear requirements for single and multi-pitch climbing and features as part of a chapter dedicated to Equipment. In climbing, safety starts with choosing the right equipment. Knowing the difference between a double rope and...
Our recent article, How Frostbite Occurs, assessed how frostbite develops and its different stages. This related extract from the UIAA Alpine Skills Summer handbook focuses on treating frostbite in the field. At basecamp or in a shelter Warm, sweet fluids. Aspirin: 500 to 1,000 mg (unless otherwise indicated)...
The higher we climb, the colder it gets: atmospheric air temperature drops by 1.2 degrees for every 200 metres of elevation gain, or six degrees per 1,000 metres. Meanwhile, extended physical exertion requires extra energy at higher elevations. Thus when you feel drained due to...
Making good decisions regarding group safety is not always easy, especially if these decisions prove unpopular. Before reaching the right decision, you must have the right tools. This includes assessing the following criteria when planning a route: It is the responsibility of the group leader to...
The latest in our series of extracts from the UIAA Alpine Skills Summer handbook focuses on group dynamics and forms part of a chapter dedicated to 'Leading a Group' which tackles the way people behave and relate to others in an exacting environment which can elicit unexpected...